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The gray whale is an air-breathing, warm-blooded mammal. Adult whales can grow from 30 to 50 feet in length and weigh from 20 to 40 tons. The average life span is 30 to 40 years, but occasionally a whale will live to 60. Calves are around 15 feet in length and weigh 1.5 tons at birth. They consume 50 gallons of milk and gain 60 to 70 pounds daily. The gray is classified as a baleen whale (Mysticeti), using their fringed "moustache" made of keratin (the same material as your fingernails) to capture and eat krill and small shrimp that live in the seawater sediments.
The grays spend the summer months feeding in the Chukchi, Bering and Beaufort seas between Siberia and Alaska. They begin heading south in October as the water starts to cool down. Courtship takes place as the gray slowly heads down the Pacific coasts of Alaska, Canada and California. Grays begin to arrive in Southern Baja’s subtropical waters in late November. Although a few calves are born along the migration route, most births occur in the lagoons, where Southern Baja's warm, safe waters insure a high success rate. The migration north occurs in reverse order. The newly pregnant females and other single whales begin heading out starting in February. New mothers and their calves linger behind, occasionally as late as May and June. The total round-trip migration covers over 12,000 miles with water temperatures ranging from 41 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
The migration of the gray whale to the southern half of the Baja Peninsula is not the only long journey they have experienced. When populations of other whales hunted by European and Yankee whalers became depleted during the early years of the 19th century, whalers turned to the gray whale to fill their holds. The migration route to the Baja calving lagoons had been discovered, thus opening the door for the wholesale slaughter of the grays. By 1874, an estimated 10,000 to 11,300 gray whales had been killed. Six years later the gray whale population was so depleted that many whalers decided that hunting the gray was no longer profitable. It was abandoned in 1890, when the population had been reduced to a few thousand. In 1946, measures were finally taken to fully protect the gray from annihilation.
Although the gray whale had been near extinction, they have now recovered to the extent that they have been taken off the "endangered species" list. In 1972, the Mexican government established a natural refuge of the gray whale at Scammon's and San Ignacio lagoons and Magdalena Bay. The gray whale is off-limits to hunting and is also protected under the auspices of the International Whaling Commission. As a result, breeding has flourished. By 1991, the total population was estimated to be 21,000, a number thought to be higher than before commercial whaling activities.
Viewing the gray whale in its natural environment is an unforgettable experience. I recently heard a story of a friend’s gray whaling trip to Laguna San Ignacio last year: “The greatest thrill was when a mom and her baby swam close by! She rolled over on her back and we actually scratched her tummy. Then others came and swam right up to the boat to take a look. They were so close we could reach over the side and pet them,” she told me. “We discovered later that the mothers are actually teaching their babies that they are safe with us. We also learned that the female whales are friendlier after March when the males have left to return north. With the males gone, they can relax!”
All you need now is to decide what kind of a gray whaling experience you want to have. You can simply watch from shore, or join a guided expedition on a charter boat. A popular option for many visitors is a day trip to Magdalena Bay or Puerto López Mateos, located approximately 300 miles north of Cabo San Lucas. These locations also have overnight accommodations. If you want to spend more time with the whales, and experience additional views of Baja’s natural wonders, consider a trip up to one of the gray whale sanctuaries at Laguna San Ignacio or Scammon’s Lagoon. There are several outfitters who specialize in these longer trips. Check with your hotel concierge for detailed information.
You're ready to go! Don’t forget your binoculars and your camera! Here are some things to watch for on your trip. First, look and listen for the “blow.” This means that the whale is expelling air and is ready to take another breath. As they move through the water, they show their course by leaving what will appear to be an oil slick on the surface. As your guide slows the boat to encourage the whales to come closer, look for the whales to project their bodies eight to 10 feet straight up above the surface of the water. This is called, “skyhopping.” Scientists believe the whale is simply looking around. Occasionally, you may see mothers and their babies swimming together close to the surface and performing “roll-overs.” Sometimes males get into a frenzy of activity and put on quite a show!
There are many tour providers who offer whale-watching expeditions locally. Pez Gato, Buccaneer Queen, Cabo Xtreme, and Cabo Sail’s Yael are all great options.
One trip is never enough!
By JoAnn Hyslop
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